I have at least one professional shift - I am constantly looking for ways to do the same, only faster and cheaper. And preferably from available means. No, I certainly know one person whose hobby is cars. Such is pure and unselfish love ... So he bought himself a car factory. But my hobbies are still much cheaper for me.

Judging by the forum, the problem of cutting veneer for homemade people exists. Therefore, I am writing for self-made people who have no other possibilities (or desire), except how to cut the veneer on their own. There may be much more simple ways get straight bars - for example, buy in a store. I don't argue with that ...

Previously, part of each veneer sheet turned out to be unused due to all sorts of problems with the fiber, but now 99% is used.

I take plywood. I glue double-sided tape about ten centimeters on it.

I put on a veneer. Length 80-90 centimeters. Please note: I specially chose veneer with a slanting layer and slightly warped to demonstrate the possibilities of the method.

Already a year ago I made one. I did it to test the idea, I thought then I would redo it better, but since it cuts without problems, I left it that way. So sorry for the plain look. Materials - plywood, blades for stationery knives and two nails.

I just began to squeeze it all with a clamp. At the same time, it is good as a handle. I set it with my cheek along the edge of the veneer and went to cut.

If necessary, you can hold it several times to cut through. The knives follow exactly the previous cut. Notice below how easy the oblique is to cut.

It remains to remove the cut strips from the tape. This is easily done with a knife, which is slipped under the veneer between the strips of tape.

Just take your time and tear it off carefully. Then even the eerie oblique remains intact.

We get a bunch of planks that almost do not require fine-tuning. In this case, the planks are straight, just as I said: the veneer sheet is specially taken the most neglected - warped. So the slats are slightly warped. But cut straight.

Scotch tape is enough for 5-7 times. The blades have enough cuts for 30. Then you feel that they are dull. You can break off the ends and continue cutting with new points.
With simultaneous cutting with 5-6 blades in 10 minutes of work, you can cut veneer into a model of decent size.

Putting plywood of different thickness between the blades, he cut strips from 3 to 10 mm wide. More than 6-7 blades are hard to pull (but it’s like someone). I did not cut veneer with a thickness of more than 1 mm (I just do not have it). But since the blades absolutely follow the old paths, I think that 1.5 mm will not be a problem either. There was an idea to use circular knives. I saw it in a stationery store, but decided that such a tool would be enough for me. But whoever is not lazy, he can try.

And now a little technological puzzle. It seems like a lot of people have problems with bending the rails? I stumbled upon the effect by accident. Guess how it's done?

The rack is taken. In this case, oak. With a cross section of approximately 10x10 mm.

And after two minutes it looks like this:

Note: the rail remained completely dry both before and after. Damn, I wanted to bend it 90 degrees for a show-off. But he hurried and it turned out somewhere around 60-70. But if I fiddled for three minutes, then it would definitely be 90! Write your answers in the forum.

I approve

First Deputy Minister

labor and social development

Russian Federation

V. A. YANVAREV

INSTRUCTION

LABOR PROTECTION FOR VENEER AND FACING CUTTERS

MATERIALS ON SCISSORS

1. GENERAL LABOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS

1.1. General requirements labor protection are set out in the Instruction "General requirements for labor protection for workers employed in furniture production".

1.2. Dangerous production factors: moving machines and mechanisms, moving parts production equipment, moving materials.

Sources of these factors: cutting tool, knife, counterweight, belt and gear drives.

The action of factors: the possibility of contact of the hands of the knife working with the blade; the possibility of contact with moving and rotating parts of the equipment.

1.3. Funds individual protection: cotton suit, combined mittens.

2. LABOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS BEFORE STARTING WORK

2.1. Check the sharpness of the cutting tool, make sure there are no cracks on the knife.

2.2. Check that the knife is firmly attached to the slider.

2.3. Monitor the serviceability of the device, which excludes the start of the pressing and cutting mechanisms when hands are in the working area.

2.4. Make sure that the knife guards, belt and gear drives, the pit (along its perimeter), and the pedal along its length are in place and in good working order.

2.5. The switching on of the mechanisms for pressing and cutting the package should be carried out by two-hand control, excluding the possibility of switching them on with one hand.

2.6. Check the serviceability of the device for holding the knife crosshead in the upper position against arbitrary lowering.

2.7. Test idling and stopping the electric motor, lifting and lowering the pressure and knife traverse.

2.8. Removing and carrying the knife should be done using a special device.

3. LABOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS DURING WORK

3.1. The employee must perform only the work that is entrusted to him by his immediate supervisor.

3.2. Do not leave the included scissors unattended.

3.3. Do not transfer the re-cut veneer bundles through the gap between the scissors.

3.4. Use a template when cutting veneers less than 70 mm.

3.5. Periodic removal of veneer waste from the knife should be carried out with a special net in a box intended for this purpose after the scissors have stopped completely.

4. REQUIREMENTS FOR LABOR PROTECTION IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS

4.1. Turn off the equipment.

4.2. Post a sign indicating the malfunction of the machine or equipment and report it to direct supervisor.

4.3. The victim or eyewitness must notify the foreman or the relevant work supervisor about each accident.

4.4. Each employee should be able to provide first aid. Help must be provided immediately at the scene of the accident. The first step is to eliminate the source of injury (turn off the engine, stop the mechanism, remove the victim from under the car, heavy object, etc.). Assistance should begin with the most essential that threatens the health or life of a person: in case of severe bleeding, apply a tourniquet, and then bandage the wound; if a closed fracture is suspected, apply a splint; for open fractures, the wound should be bandaged first, and then a splint should be applied; for burns, apply a dry bandage; in case of frostbite, gently rub the affected area using soft or fluffy cloths.

If there is a suspicion of spinal injury, the victim can be transported only in the supine position on a rigid base.

After providing first aid, the victim should be sent to the nearest medical institution.

5. LABOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS AT THE END OF WORK

5.1. At the end of the work, you should:

turn off the equipment, wait for it to stop completely;

put in order workplace, remove the tool, devices;

clean the machine from dirt, dust, wipe and lubricate the rubbing parts of the machine;

carefully fold the finished parts and the remaining material;

used in work and when cleaning rags, put the rags in a special metal box with a closing lid and take it outside the workshop to the designated place.

5.2. Cleaning of wood waste (sawdust, shavings, dust) from the surface of the equipment and from overalls should be done with a broom brush or using a vacuum cleaner. Do not blow the machine and clothing with compressed air.

5.3. Wash your face and hands with warm water and soap, if possible, take a shower.

5.4. Inform the changer or foreman about all noticed shortcomings in the operation of the equipment.

5.5. Shortcomings in the field of labor protection must be reported to the foreman or the relevant work supervisor.

The Association assists in the provision of services in the sale of timber: at competitive prices on an ongoing basis. Timber products are of excellent quality.

Veneer jointing machine.

A new development in the field of veneer cutting, which surpasses conventional shears and guillotines for this purpose in quality and speed of work, is veneer cutter LANGZAUNER LZ5 / 2 with a paring station. This machine is so efficient that it can cut a weekly rate of veneer in 5 hours.

The operating principle of the machine is very simple. First happens cutting veneer with a circular saw to size with an allowance of 0.15 mm, after which the cut veneer is milled to the depth of the allowance with a 12000 rpm jointer mill. The result hits all expectations.

In the course of such procedures, an ideal perpendicular end of 90 ° is obtained, regardless of the amount of veneer. LZ5 / 2 veneer cutter with jointing station allows you to perform a number of tasks depending on the ultimate goal of the client. Cutting of veneer can be carried out not only in separate sheets, but also in a whole bundle.

The machine can be used and for rough cutting of veneer... With its help, you can additionally grind the end face of a pack of veneer or perform the operation of cutting plywood followed by reverse planing.

The machine has a handle with which manual feed is carried out. Moving the saw and milling unit up and down is carried out using pneumatic independent hand valves, mounted on the unit, along compact linear guides. The tool carriage moves along its length along hardened, hardened, high-precision linear guides with a diameter of 30 mm.

LANGZAUNER LZ5 / 2 veneer cutter the station is supplied with all the necessary tools for maintenance, so it is completely ready for trouble-free operation.

Technical Data of LANGZAUNER LZ5 / 2 Veneer Slicer

Working voltage	3 х 400 V + N, 50 Hz
Cutting and milling length	3050 mm
Cutting and milling height	45 mm
Saw station	P = 2.2 kV, n = about 10,000 1 / minute
Circular Saw	diameter = 200 mm
Milling station	P = 1.1 kV, n = about 10500 1 / minute
Cutter size	85/50/30 mm, 4 HM replaceable inserts
Saw motor power	2.2 kV, 400 V / 50 Hz
Cutter motor power	1.1 kV, 400 V / 50 Hz
Height adjustment of the saw and cutter	three-stage by means of a revolving stopper
Suction connection	diameter 150 mm, lower suction pressure: about 1780 Pa
Necessary compressed air	6 bar
Suction duct with connecting pipes	diameter 150 mm
Cable entry to the tool carriage	on a plastic chain

OPTIONS of the LANGZAUNER LZ5 / 2 veneer cutter

W1970-1350	Parallel balancing of a gear rack 3050 mm Prevents the pressure beam from tilting
W1970-1351	Parallel balancing of a gear rack 3500 mm
W1970-1352	Parallel balancing of a gear rack 4000 mm
W1970-8110	Double linear guide 3050 mm The carriage with the tool is moved along 2 rigid and ground linear guides
W1970-8111	Double linear guide 3500 mm
W1970-8112	Double linear guide 4000 mm
W1970-1400	Movable front table 3050 mm, Cutting length 3050 mm, connected to the milling unit, anodized Loading width 200 mm, horizontal manual movement
W1970-1401	Movable front table 3500 mm
W1970-1402	Movable front table 4000 mm
W1970-1500	Movable front table 3050 mm with pneumatic adjustment, thanks to this device, the front loading table moves automatically forward or backward when using the milling unit
W1970-1501	Movable front table 3500 mm
W1970-1502	Movable front table 4000 mm Pneumatically adjustable
W1970-5000	Cutting (format) table 3050 x 560 mm Dimension: 3050 x 560 mm for plywood with a width of 560 mm, with integrated measuring scale, parallel guide and pneumatic safety device
W1970-5001	Formatting table 3500 x 560 mm
W1970-5002	Formatting table 4000 x 560 mm
W1970-5300	Digital device workpiece width measurements Electronic dimensioning for a cutting table with manual width adjustment, Fast and accurate cutting depth setting, easy maintenance Large digital limit, easy switching on changes Switching from absolute dimension to incremental dimension when cutting in strips, taking into account the thickness of the saw blade Ergonomic arrangement of the entire control device Ability to save parameters when the machine is turned off
W1970-5400	Mechanical adjustment of the cutting depth using a handwheel
W1970-6100	One-step determination of the cutting width, including digital readout of the width for a cutting depth of 800 mm
W1970-6200	Two-stage width adjustment including digital width readout and mechanical handwheel adjustment for fast and efficient workflow 1st stage cutting depth 800 mm 2nd stage free slip of the machine (for deep cut)
W1940-2130	Pneumatic saw blade adjustment The saw blade can be pneumatically set about 2 mm from the cutting edge to cut off the residue
W1940-5850	Cutting at an angle with a scale of +/- 45 degrees, descending
W1970-1800	Laser guide for cutting precision
W1960-2500	Chip removal device With the help of a special milling cutter with a powerful drive, irregularities on the edge up to 3 mm can be removed without cutting and moved into the suction hole Thanks to this, the edging of the plywood is cleaned and the workplace is kept clean.

Started this section to avoid repetition in different articles. I plywood various products quite often, and instead of describing the veneering process in each master class, I will simply give a link to this article. The section will be updated and supplemented as the photo (and in the future, video) material arrives. And of course, as you use other methods of veneering and working with veneer.

Veneer can be sawn and peeled. Sawed veneer, as a rule, has a thickness of 3 mm. Rotary cut veneer - less than 1 mm. I'll talk about rotary veneer for now, in part because I use it more often, and rotary veneer is more common. I will return to the conversation about sawn veneer a little later, when there is enough material for publication and work experience.

Usually natural rotary cut veneer is not very wide - only 100-140 mm, with rare exceptions a little wider. The length of the veneer knoli (pack) can be different. From one and a half to three meters.

I will begin my story with simple operations - veneering a workpiece (plane) with natural rotary cut veneer 0.6 mm thick.

In order to veneer (paste over) a workpiece of greater width with such veneer, the veneer strips must be “put into a shirt” (connected together). Since the strips themselves do not have a perfect edge when purchased, you need to trim this edge first. Otherwise, after the set (connection) of the strips, there will be a gap between them. There are many ways to level veneer edges, one of which is to join the edges.

Edge planing.

To begin with, I usually make two pine needles. The bars must be flat in all planes and have an angle of 90 degrees. Between these blocks, I squeeze the veneer strips using lever clamps, if the width of the veneer strips allows them to be installed. In the case of planing wide strips, you can use a beam with a strong curvature, turn it so as to increase the pressure in the middle.

Then I join the veneer strips, along with the bars. If you look at the surface during the jointing process, you will see that the veneer edge aligns with the other, tightly pressed sheets.

You need to strive for nearly complete surface uniformity. In this case, it is important not to overdo it, because if we fugate too long, we can “fill up” the corner, which will lead, again, to unnecessary cracks, or disrupt the conceived pattern.

Next, lay out the veneer, turning over the strips and combining the “native” sides. We check the quality of the edges by folding and pulling the strips together. The way to set a veneer shirt can be absolutely any. Traditionally, veneer is collected with a "book", that is, the "native" sides of the strips are combined - mirror-like.

Another way to trim the veneer edge before putting it into the "shirt" is cutting with a razor.

Cutting veneer with a razor.

Trimming is done with a very simple tool. It is essentially a homemade veneer cutter. A simple razor crimped with two pieces of any board material or wood. In my case, these are two pieces of MDF 16 or 19 mm. The razor's cutting edge protrudes slightly, literally by 1mm. , that is, it does not significantly exceed the thickness of the veneer used in the work.As for the razor itself - it can be any simple razor, the only thing I liked more than the domestic production of the razor. Sputnik or Neva. Imported razors, in my opinion, are a little thinner, last less time and the cut itself is not always good. Before assembling the two halves of our veneer cutter body, it is better to fix the razor on one of the halves with a simple masking tape. This will greatly simplify the further trimming process.

First, I cut the veneer to the desired length. Usually, I make the "shirt" longer and wider than the workpiece by about 10 mm. (5 mm on each side). "Overhangs" (protruding veneer) larger than 5 mm will be difficult to remove accurately. Cutting "overhangs" and a device for working with an edge after veneering, I described in more detail in the articleAs a work surface, I usually use mdf strip. On it, if there are a lot of blanks, I markup and cut the veneer to the desired size. Many of my colleagues also like to use plywood - the razor will dull less. In this case, I use a piece of MDF with an angle of 90 degrees as a stop for the cutter. The cut is made on both sides so as not to damage the veneer at the exit. Pressing the stop firmly against the surface of the veneer, I cut on one side, and then, turning the cutter over, I cut the entire strip. For this operation, you can use a simple stationery cutter. If there are a lot of workpieces of the same length, you can squeeze many strips of veneer at once between two sheets of board material and trim them using a miter saw or hand mill.

Next, using the same MDF as a base, we put a second strip of MDF on top, fixing it with clamps at the end. We mark the intended cut. In the future, by placing a strip of veneer between the MDF strips, we use the top strip as a stop. Pressing it with one hand, we cut the veneer along the entire length. If the veneer strip "walks" a little and shifts during the cutting process, you can stick pieces of abrasive on the top strip from the inside. In rare cases, when it is necessary, I glue the abrasive to double-sided tape - this way it is easier to remove it later. The abrasive firmly fixes the veneer strip, does not allow it to move, and the seam between the strips when the veneer is put into the "shirt" is flawless.

It is important that the MDF strip used as a stop is wide and even. Otherwise, two veneer strips will be difficult to join, three - extremely difficult, and further set will require subsequent trimming of the outer curved edges.

When cutting the veneer, the razor leaves a cut on the base (bottom strip) and dulls a little. The subsequent cut follows exactly the “knurled track” and does not cause major changes in the razor blade. The razor quickly becomes blunt and just about the veneer, because as soon as the cut becomes not perfect and the hand begins to feel how the razor cuts the fibers of the veneer texture, it is turned over. Thus, each shaver can be turned 4 times.

A set of shirts for Gumirka.

One of the ways of gluing veneer in the “set of shirts” is to use the Gummed tape (“Gumirka”). It is usually sold in the same stores as veneer. For work, we also need a sponge (or a piece of foam rubber) slightly moistened with water and a plastic card. A credit card or a discount card will do just fine ... unless of course you feel sorry for it. I cut the tape into small pieces, about 40-50 mm long, although it is more convenient for someone.

Pieces of gumirka are dipped in a sponge with water and laid out next to them on the table to dry. Gumirka moistened with water has adhesive properties - it sticks. Next, put the drying gumir on the seam, tightening the edges and rub in with plastic. It is important to apply Gumirka exactly at the moment when it is still sticky, but not very wet, otherwise it sticks worse and moistens the veneer a little more with water, which is also not very good. It is not very difficult, it is easy to master, picking up empirically.

Well, that's all, our "shirt" is typed. There is an opinion that Gumirka, when dried, pulls the veneer strips a little to each other and the seam becomes better. But either I am so unlucky, or I come across some kind of gumirka ... In a word, no matter how hard I tried, I did not notice such an effect. Gumirka is excellent and almost irreplaceable when it comes to marquetry. Thanks to the opposite effect (it can be slightly moistened and carefully removed from the surface), marketers create amazing works. But if your set is a simple "shirt" in one direction, then it will be easier for you to work with masking tape.

A set of shirts with tape.

It is possible to splice veneer strips not only by using a rubberized tape.

You can use special tape or simple masking tape for splicing veneer. In one of the workshops where I was lucky enough to work, I came across a similar method. Scotch tape is a tape of blue or light brown color, not very sticky, but it is quite enough for gluing the veneer. The principle of the sticker is exactly the same as when using gumirka. Apply it in small sections to the seam, pulling the veneer strips together with your other hand. Some lightly "grab" the strips with sparse pieces of scotch tape, then glue the entire seam entirely. Some do not seal the seam. I usually put a little overlap on the previous piece of tape. So after veneering it is easier for me to remove the adhesive tape from the workpiece.

The use of scotch tape, of course, allows you to increase the speed of dialing shirts, but this technique has one significant drawback. I was strongly advised not to try to sand the scotch tape after veneering with a sander, explaining that traces of the scotch tape (glue) may remain and show through after varnishing.

The adhesive tape must be removed, while the glue sticks together with the tape, leaving almost no traces on the workpiece. I tried to use simple masking tape for the same purposes, it seemed to me more sticky. When removing it from the workpiece, it strives to pull out the veneer fibers from the junction of the strips. In the case of colored tape, this effect was also present, but in a much less pronounced form.

Thus, the process of putting veneer into my shirt took about the same time as when using the gumirka, only I glued the gumirka longer, and when using scotch tape, I spent time removing it. A simple iron will help you not to spend a lot of time removing the tape. If you heat it up to a temperature warm, but not hot - when the hand does not burn, I put it directly on the veneered workpiece and, moving it, remove the tape. In this case, you can pick it up with cycles or a blunt chisel and pull it. With stronger heating, one cycle can be dispensed with, but stronger heating is not desirable for the workpiece, moreover, you can overheat the adhesive tape, then the effect will be the opposite.

Splicing veneer with a manual machine.

There is another way of splicing veneer in “shirt-type” - using a manual veneer splicer. We resort to it when a larger volume of workpieces or when an operation needs to be done quickly. Separately, I note that I still like working with gumirka or scotch more and it turns out better. The machine, of course, gives great speed, while if you get your hands on it, I think the quality will not differ much.

So, the machine is a spool of special threads coated with glue (it is a consumable), planted on top of a non-tricky structure powered by a network. The thread is passed through the heating element and becomes sticky. The heating “proboscis” through which the thread is passed, when the machine moves, makes zigzag movements, applying the thread to the veneer surface. And the roller, which is at the same time one of the wheels of the machine, tightly rolls the heated thread, pressing it to the surface.

The principle of operation is the same as with Gumirka. Pressing the veneer edges tightly with one hand, gently guide the machine along the seam with the other.It seemed to me not very difficult to work with the typewriter, but nevertheless it will require a certain skill. In addition, the cost of the car and, most importantly - consumable may seem unhuman to you. The shirt is glued down with the glue thread.

There is also a great variety of machines for splicing veneer strips, the acquisition of which may make sense with a large amount of veneer. I don’t have much experience with such equipment and even with a manual veneer splicer, and in general I don’t have any desire to acquire them. For my tasks, the "set of shirts" for masking tape suits me best.

Gluing the workpiece with clamps.

Since not every workshop has a heavy press, I will describe one of the gluing methods - veneering with clamps. A pre-prepared bar (45x140x600mm.) Is placed on the desktop, in the amount of 4-5 pieces, on which a sheet of plate material is placed, in our case it is a chipboard sheet (40x620x1800mm.) Bars (45x70x600mm.) In the amount of 10-12 pieces are prepared. On a sheet of chipboard, I usually spread a newspaper or other paper. I try to avoid a lot of paper, just one or two layers. The paper is needed so that excess glue does not get on the surface of our makeshift press and does not stick the workpiece to it. The paper also absorbs excess moisture and allows the blanks to glue a little faster than in the case of linoleum or film.

So, evenly apply glue (in our case, this is a regular PVA) on the surface of the workpiece, with a roller. It is not necessary to pour a lot of glue, this can have a bad effect on the quality of gluing, or, if the glue is watery, simply “punch the veneer” - the glue can appear on the front sides of the veneer surface, penetrating through the pores of the wood. The workpiece, if it is veneered on both sides, can be put on a special device. This will allow the glue to be applied to both sides of the workpiece before placing it in the press. It is important that the time between applying the adhesive and placing the workpiece under pressure is as short as possible. Otherwise, if water-based glue is used, it becomes weathered and loses its adhesive properties.

Then on the previously spread layer of paper we stretch the “shirt” with Gumirka or threads in the direction opposite to the glued one. That is, outward. Thus, the Adhesive thread or Gummed tape ends up on the front sides of the product. On the veneer, we put our glue-coated blank, cover it with another “shirt”, stretch a layer of paper and put another sheet of board material on top. Next, we squeeze both sheets, with the embedded billet with bars and quick-clamping clamps. In this case, the bars act as a distribution of compression over the entire surface of the sheet, and not just along the edges. The remaining free space between the bars can be squeezed out with everything that is at hand, but there is no special need for this.

The workpiece is usually under pressure for at least 25 minutes, and usually we leave it for 30-40 minutes. In the case of an industrial press, the drying time can be significantly shorter. This method is quite cheap, but very time consuming. It will suit you only if you need to veneer several workpieces, and if it is not possible to use a vacuum, pneumatic or hydraulic press.

Veneering in the press.

It happens in the same way as when veneering with clamps, only much faster and with less labor. In the workshop, where fate has brought this cold, homemade pneumatic press. He described the press in detail in the article - Linoleum is spread on the surface of the press, then polyethylene - so as not to spoil the linoleum and not spend a lot of time cleaning it from the glue. In the case of using polyurethane adhesives, polyethylene is required, it is extremely difficult to remove drops of glue from linoleum. Next, the workpieces are covered with another sheet of polyethylene and linoleum.

The press holding time of the blanks can be reduced if a heating film is used. I can't say for sure the heating temperature, I didn't measure it ... warm, but not hot. The film helped out great when the low temperature in the workshop did not allow veneering at all. The glue was heated with warm air and this film was used for veneering.

For veneering, most often I use kleiberit 303.0 glue and usually d3. If you did not have time to veneer all the blanks, and part of the work remains for tomorrow, and you are too lazy to dry the roller in the morning, you can simply wrap it in stretch. Thus, the glue will not dry out overnight and the roller will not be harmful. In addition, 300-400 grams of glue always disappears on the roller, which is also not very pleasant.

Facing the surface of the workpiece with "Deck"

As promised, I will continue to edit and supplement the section.

I often come across the fact that facing the surface of the product with "Deck" (strips of solid wood, more than 2-3 mm thick.) Is often equated with working with veneer. Experienced craftsmen, carpenters, often correct me when I call a "deck" material with a thickness of 2-3mm. and insist that it is just a thick veneer. I won't argue, but I'm so used to it. And in this article, and in other articles on this Internet resource, I call a deck of a strip of thick veneer from 2.5 mm, usually a sawn veneer.

Selection of material.

The main advantage of "deck" cladding, I believe, is the ability to select exactly the material that the artisan considers appropriate for his product. That is, this method provides more opportunities, but one cannot fail to take into account that labor costs, the amount of material, and therefore the cost of the product, will be significantly higher than when working with thin (peeled) veneer.

The second significant advantage is the finish of the product. When toning, thin, peeled veneer and solid wood give different shades. With a "dull" color with enamel, it does not matter, but in the work with stains or tints, the difference is quite noticeable, and it can be great to spoil appearance products.

Another weighty argument in favor of a deck or thick veneer is durability and the possibility of further restoration. The deck is often used on stair treads, chair seats, countertops, window sill and shelf surfaces. In general, wherever the surface is subject to severe stress or wear.

To count the material before picking, you need to determine the width of the strips. I was guided by my capabilities. The maximum possible cut of my circular saw, with a disc, available - 60mm. That is, if you cut in two passes, with a turnover of the workpiece - approximately 118-120mm. Thus, I took the width of the tabletop - 500mm, with a small allowance - 520mm. and divided by 120mm. It turns out 4.3 bands, that is, five. But since the workpiece has two sides (and I wanted to be sure that after pressing the workpiece will remain flat and not jarring), I decided to veneer both sides with a deck of the same thickness - 10 strips.

I decided to play it safe, in case it was not possible to match the color perfectly and use stripes with a width that is a multiple of the width of the table top. Otherwise, if the color difference comes through after sanding, stripes of different widths on the countertop will not look beautiful. That is, the width of our strips, after all calculations, will be 110mm. (520mm. Divide by 5 = 104mm. And give a small allowance for jointing.

And so, we get the most convenient deck width for this product - 110mm. From one piece of board, on average, I get 4-5 deck strips. I do not like to depend on the case, and again I calmly give a margin for the amount, and I saw 3 pieces of the board. This is approximately 12-15 deck lanes. The stock makes it possible to select more beautiful stripes and avoid accidents during further processing. Considering the table top is 1000 mm long, I had to use more than one board, because with a final size of 1000 mm, I need a deck about 1150 mm long. In further processing (reimus), I will need a supply for the cut. My thicknessing machine makes a "step" at the entrance and exit of the workpiece.

Board 30mm thick. I chose for the top of the chest of drawers for a long time. There was a lot of material and it was an unedged board, with knots, sapwood and wane.It is rather difficult to find a decent board and understand that this particular board will fit - there are almost no fibers visible on a dirty board and the color is incomprehensible. In order to select one board, I had to take several boards into work, namely 4 boards. The first selection is not done by chance. Large swell, very strong curvature of the board, large knots are discarded at the initial stage, the rest can be discarded after planing.

Making a "deck"

After sawing and planing on both sides, it becomes clear that the board is suitable for of this product or not. At this stage, you can reject by color. If the job may require more than one board, it is important that all stripes are similar in color. I sawed off the wane at the boards and sapwood.In this case, the selected board was sawn off to a size of approximately 120 mm. After jointing, I selected the best board, and set aside the rest of the boards for other elements and products. So, after cleaning the board and rejecting, we have three pieces of the board, approximately 28x120x1150 mm in size, which we join from all four sides and sawn off to a size of 110 mm.

Further, the prepared bars are “unraveled” into strips. If the final thickness of our "deck" is, for example, 3 mm, then the thickness of the strips that we are sawing should be approximately 3.5-4 mm.I cut to the middle of the piece, turn it over, and re-saw. The same thing on the other side of our workpiece. Thus, we get two sawn strips 3.5-4 mm. and the remainder, which is re-fugged. If we want to get 5 stripes from a 30 mm board. it is necessary to join only partially and the thickness of the strips at the exit from the sawing machine is 3-3.5 mm.

The operation is quite traumatic and dangerous. It is necessary to work carefully, using a "pusher" and glasses. If you do not have initial experience with power tools and circular saws, this method can easily render you disabled. In work, the workpiece must be limited from all sides with stops, combs and clamps.

For further work, I used a simple device. A piece of panel material, in my case, plywood. The block on the front side is needed so that the device does not pull into the machine along with the workpiece. This device is needed in order to be able to process workpieces of less thickness than the design of the thicknessing machine provides.

Our strips are processed in a thicknessing machine on both sides. I paid attention to how I fed the workpiece into the machine and tried to feed it "along the fibers" and not "against the fibers" so that there were fewer chips. If chips cannot be completely avoided, strips with large chips are discarded, and the remaining chips are removed by grinding and filling.

The angle of sharpening of the planer knives has a great effect on the quality of gouging. The sharper the sharpening angle, the more explosions and chips will be. This is purely my observation, and many may disagree with it.

At the exit from the thicknessing machine, a "step" remains on the blanks, approximately 60-65mm. from the edge of the workpiece. This is due to the poor setting of the press rollers of the machine. I just make the blanks 150-160mm longer. and cut off this "tail" by facing.

The strips are squeezed into bars and jointed in a "package" until complete homogeneity is obtained. After that, the whole stack is turned over, the second edge of the strips is squeezed again and fugged. In the work, it should be taken into account that the bars lose a little the correct angle of 90 degrees and they need to be corrected. Also pay special attention to the position of the clamps, otherwise both clamps and planer blades may suffer.

A shirt deck set is similar to a shirt deck set using plain (peeled) veneer. Only if earlier, in our work, we used masking tape or gumirka, now, when working with the "deck", we use simple tape. The strips are tightly pressed against each other, pulled together with tape, with a slight stretch. The scotch tape tightly attracts the strips together, eliminating small curvature, if any. Next, I glue the entire seam longitudinally. It is better to remove the scotch tape immediately after pressing. I have heard that many joiners re-glue strips together. I don’t do it, it seems so far everything is not bad anyway.

Pressing the workpiece "deck"

For pressing, you can use clamps or a press, if possible. But in any case, it should be taken into account that facing the blank with a "deck" will require significantly more pressure than facing with veneer.Most recently, I have had experience with a vacuum press and find this option the most beginner-friendly.

After pressing, the surplus of the deck (overhangs) protruding beyond the workpiece is removed by a milling cutter with a bearing or cut off. It is better to remove the tape right away, then it will be more difficult to remove it. Glue and tape residues are removed by cycles and sanding.

It is possible to make a deck on your own, but it must be borne in mind that it takes a very long time, much longer than it is done in production conditions. This only makes sense if the volume of work is not large. If you need to make a tabletop for a chest of drawers, a table or a stool seat. For a large amount of work, it is not profitable to cut the deck yourself and it takes a very long time, of course, I would prefer to purchase a ready-made one.

To clarify the above, we made a small video about the veneering process. "Set of shirts" and gluing of blanks in vacuum press... Also a little about how best to remove masking tape after veneering.

So that is all. The section will be supplemented and updated with new photo and video material. Thank you for the attention. I hope it was interesting.

MACHINE SOLD.

Veneer trimming machine (furniture saw) LANGZAUNER LZ 5/2 serviceable located in the Moscow region

Veneer pouch processing 1.cutting with a saw and 2.fusing with a milling cutter.

A new development in the field of veneer cutting, which surpasses conventional guillotine shears for this purpose in quality and speed of work, is the veneer cutter LANGZAUNER LZ 5/2 with pre-jointing station. This machine is so efficient that it can cut a weekly rate of veneer in 5 hours.

The operating principle of the machine is very simple. First, the veneer is cut with a circular saw to a size with an allowance of 0.15 mm, after which the veneer is milled with a planer cutter at a speed of 1200 rpm to the depth of the allowance. The result hits all expectations. In the course of such procedures, an ideal perpendicular end of 90 ° is obtained, regardless of the amount of veneer.

The LZ 5/2 with a jointing station allows a number of tasks to be carried out depending on the end goal of the customer. Cutting of veneer can be carried out not only in separate sheets, but also in a whole bundle. The machine can be used for rough cutting of veneer. With its help, you can additionally grind the end face of a pack of veneer or perform the operation of cutting plywood followed by reverse planing.

The machine has a handle with which manual feed is carried out. Moving the saw and milling unit up and down is carried out using pneumatic independent hand valves, mounted on the unit, along compact linear guides.

The tool carriage moves along its length along hardened, hardened, high-precision linear guides with a diameter of 30 mm. The LANGZAUNER LZ 5/2 veneer cutter with a joiner station is supplied with all the necessary maintenance tools, so it is completely ready for trouble-free operation.

Specifications

Working voltage: 3 х 400 v + N, 50 Hz

Cutting and milling length: 3050 mm,

Cutting and milling height: 45 mm,

Sawing station: P = 2.2 kW, n = approx. 10,000 rpm

Circular saw: dia. = 200 mm,

Milling station: P = 1.1 kW, n = about 10500 rpm

Milling cutter size: 85/50/30 mm, 4 HM indexable inserts

Saw motor power: 2,2 kW, 400 V / 50 Hz